Creation of a Stained Glass Panel
This is a synopsis of making a Stained Glass
panel from design threw construction.
Also Glazing, Packing and Crating of a Panel
Click on the thumbnails for a larger picture.
Step One
Step one is discussion with the client .
What exactly they want for a panel? Will
it be installed in an existing opening or
to be framed and hung by itself. What will
be the dimensions of the panel? In case of
putting in a existing opening, what are the
existing openings exact dimensions, in case
of a framed panel what are the desired dimensions.What
type of design do they want? Realistic,abstract or some kind of pattern
effect. Do they want beveled glass incorporated?
What colors do they wish incorporated?
Step Two
Step two is design of the panel.
For this I use a computer program specifically
designed for Stained Glass designing called
"Glass eye". With it you can design
each object or parts of a design then import
them into the main design. You can then reseize,move
or adjust each part with out having to redraw
the whole design. Once you have all the sub designs where you
want them you have to connect everything
that needs to be connected and also draw
in the background.
For this panel the client wanted a panel
to fit in an existing Entry Door. It was
to be a portrait type design with the dimensions
of 231/2 by 30 inches. The main design elements
were to be a Pink Flamingo with lily an reeds
standing in water and background.
First order was the design of the main subdesigns.
Next is to design the main panel from the
subdesigns and adding selected glass colors.
Final Pattern |
Colored Pattern |
Step Three
Step three is layout of the pattern for construction.
First of all I will tack up nearby a colored
pattern with each piece of the panel numbered
and the types of glass to be used listed.
This will be used for reference during construction.
Reference Pattern |
Next Will be to place the lay out pattern
on the work table. This is a uncolored pattern
with all the individual pieces numbered so
you get the right pieces in the right places.
Then to prevent the panel from "growing"
which is another term meaning to keep the
panel with in the exact size and shape you
require it. You need to lay down either wood
lathe, or as I use some aluminum angle iron
to frame the panel during construction.
For the next part- preparing to cut the glass
pieces. There are two methods to accomplish
this. One is called the "Trace Method"
which is to take a light box an place the
part of the pattern you need to cut on it
then place the particular glass you need
to cut over that and then either trace with
a marker on the glass an score or just score
the piece right from the light table. The
other method is called "Pattern method"
where you take and cut each individual pattern
piece and then glue them to the particular
glass you need. From there you can score
around each piece and the just wash off the
pattern piece. For this particular panel
I used the "Pattern Method".
Layout Pattern |
Step Four
Step four is the cutting and placing of individual
pieces. There are two methods to this step.
The first is called the "Leaded Method"
where you use lead came around each piece
and then solder the joints of each piece
of came together. The second method is called
the "Tiffany Method" this is where
you take each piece wrap it with foil strips
and then solder with a 60/40 lead solder
to get your leaded lines. For this panel
I used the "Tiffany Method".
In both methods to get the best realistic effect
to the panel you need to plan and cut each
piece to the desired flow. Each glass has
a grain and direction to that grain. Such
as in this panel for the sky you want each
piece to to flow from left to right to get
the feel of a true sky. For the flamingo
you need to cut each piece you need to cut
it so each piece flows like each one was
feathers running in the proper direction.
With out doing this you would get a panel
with out any direction to it. This would
make the artistic difference between a panel
that is true to form and pleasing to the
eye or something that looks like it was just
slapped together.
Cut/Foil 1 |
Cut/Foil 2 |
Cut/Foil 3 |
Cut/Foil 4 |
Step Five
Step five for this method is soldering of
the panel. To accomplish this you first have
to flux the entire foiled lines between each
piece of glass. Next is to solder each individual
piece with a nice rounded bead of solder
to get your lead lines connecting all the
pieces together.
Soldered Panel |
Step Six
Step six is to "Patina" the leaded
lines of the panel. For this you can patina
the lead lines either black,copper, antique
brass or leave the lead lines unpatinaed.
For this panel we patinaed the lead lines
black. To do this you first make sure the
panel is completely clean. Then you lightly
pour the black patina over the panel making
sure you cover all the lead lines completely,
you do this lightly and do not want to scrub
the patina or you will get a brown patina.
You then let the panel set a few minutes
with the solution on it. Next you rinse the
panel very well with out scrubbing, making
sure you get all the excess patina off the
panel. Let air dry and let the panel sit
over night so that the patina has a chance
to set. Last step is to clean the panel with
a good dishsoap with ammonia neutralizing
the panel, scrubbing well with a scrub brush
and then rinse well. Final step is to apply
a good liquid carnuba wax, let the wax dry to a good haze and
then buff out to a high sheen just like you
would a car.
Finished Panel |
Step Seven
Step seven is to either frame the panel or
to install the panel. For this panel it is
to be installed in a front entry door so
it will not be framed.
Glazing
For this panel being that it was being installed
as a new window in a door and for safety
sake they wanted it glazed.
There are two types of glazing. Double glazed
which is a tempered glass in front of the
panel and then sealed. Triple glazed is a
tempered glass on both sides of the panel
and sealed. This panel will be triple glazed
Here are the steps for the glazing of the
window.
First clean an buff the panel well so there
is no prints or any foreign partials of any
kind account there will be no way to get
at it one it is glazed to clean it. Then
place the panel on a flat surface such as
the work table.
Now apply the "desiccant tape"
called super spacer to about 1/8th inch from
the outside edges of the panel. This tape
has adhesive to both edges and hold the two
pieces of glass together.
Next very careful set the tempered glass
onto the panel. Making sure that they line
up. The tape is not real forgiving and sticks
right away, then carefully press down along
the edges to ensure the panels are sealed
good with the desiccant tape.
Now flip the panel over. Apply the desiccant
tape as you did on the first side. Remembering
to stay 1/8th inch from the edge.
Next place the second tempered glass on to
the second side the same as the other side.
Pressing down on the edges to ensure a sealed
fit.
Here is a picture of the panel with both
sides glazed. Excuse the picture as was taken
in the studio without proper light.
Next stand the glazed panel on it's edge.
Best way to do this is to place a couple
or three boards on the floor. Then set the
glazed panel on these. Now you are ready
to caulk the edges of the panel to seal it.The caulk is a black rubber type sealant. At this point do not worry about making
a nice pretty caulk line. Apply the caulk
liberally, then go over it with a putty knife
to smooth the edges, let the excess caulk
that goes over the sides onto the glass remain
for now. Now set the panel aside for now,
best over night. So that the sealant has
time to set up.
Once the sealant is set up. Place the panel
on your work table. Take a razor blade and
trim the excess rubber sealant from the front
and back of the panel edges. This will produce
a nice smooth seal on the edges. Here is
a picture of the panel on the table ready
to be trimmed. You can see the edges that
need to be trimmed. After doing this the
panel is ready to e installed.
Here is the finished panel. After trimming
of the sides.
PACKING
This panel was to be shipped to the client.
This is my personnel way of packing a panel.
Has proved to be a good way to do it without
any breakage. But there is always that one
time that it won't. Which would be due to
no control of the shippers handling. Main
thing is to pack it well with at least 2
inch styrofoam on all sides. Here are the
steps.
First cut a piece of 2 inch styrofoam the
exact size of the panel.
Next lay the panel on the piece of styrofoam.
Next lay the second piece of styrofoam over
the panel.
Next tape these together so they are tight
and snug together with no play in it.
Next cut pieces of the 2 inch styrofoam to
fit all four edges so they fit even from
end to end and from edge to edge. You want
these so that they are a snug fit with no
play in it. Once you get these all cut, tape
the whole thing together so it is nice and
tight all the way around. Make sure everything
fits tight with no play and the whole thing
makes a nice box shape. Use a good packing
tape not masking tape so it will hold together
well, masking tape will have a tendency to
want to come apart.
Done right this will provide good padding
for the panel. Also hold it in place so that
it cannot move around.
CRATING
To crate this for shipping I used 2 by 6's,
which happened to come out just the right
width of the packaged panel. If it doesn't
come out to the exact width of the packaged
panel you will either need to rip the 2 by
6 down to the width of the panel or you can
add styrofoam to the front and back of the
packaged panel to fit the 2 by 6.Either way
just as in the packing you are going to need
as tight of a fit as you can get. Main point
you can have NO play between the packed panel
and the crate box. Once you have the right
width you need to cut them to length. keeping
a nice tight fit on all four edged. Once
you have this SCREW the frame together. Don't
use nails. They have a tendency to work their
way loose. Once this is done lay the wood
frame on the floor and use either plywood,
use at least 1/2 inch plywood to make one
side of the crate. cut this to the outside
dimension of the frame with out any over
hang and then SCREW this to the frame. Now
you should have a box with four edges and
a side. take this box and turn it over so
the open side is up. Insert the packaged
panel into the box. You should have NO play
anywhere in the box. If by chance there is
any, pack the areas with bubble wrap or more
styrofoam as you need this as snug as you
can get. Once this is all done you can install
the top side with the 1/2 inch plywood making
sure again there will be no play between
the top of the packaged panel and the top
of the crate. If there is any add some bubble
wrap to it. Best is if you need to press
lightly to get the top of the crate to fit
to the edges of the crate. Then SCREW the
top down and you have your finished crate.
Once crated it is best to fasten the stare
to a pallet with the crate standing on it's
edge. Fasten to the pallet at the bottom
and also with pieces of wood angling from
the top of the crate to the edges of the
pallet. For this particular panel I was unable
to find someone to ship it on a pallet so
had to ship with just the crate. But with
the crate properly well made it made it to
it's destination intact
Here are pictures of the panel as it was
crated for shipping. First picture is a drawing
of how to do it. Second picture is of the
panel laying in the crate with the surrounding
styrofoam and 2 by 6 frame of the crate.
Third picture is with the front of the crate
screwed on. Fourth picture is of the finished
crate standing on end and ready for shipping..
Here is a picture of a properly made and
palleted panel. Ready for shipping.
Any questions or interest in any of these
items or any custom Stained Glass work you
can contact us at harleyp7@bis.midco.net
